Monday, March 24, 2014

rest of bolivia pt. 1 - samaipata, cochabamba, toro toro

Since I was working in a bar in Rurre, it was clear that my last night there had to be celebrated. That led to me sleeping in way longer than planned, and then having to say goodbye to everybody with quite a hangover. But I made it to my flight in time (which wasn't that hard because it got delayed anyways) and spent an horrible hour on a small airplane above the wide and empty lowlands of Bolivia.
I was continuing my travels with an English guy, Scott, and after arriving in Trinidad we made our way to the bus terminal to find a night bus to Santa Cruz. We bought our tickets and had then a couple of hours in Trinidad, which we spent walking around. Fortunately I felt better by then, but there's pretty much nothing interesting in Trini.
The bus to Sta. Cruz was definitely not the best one in my life (I don't sleep that well with a drunk guy sitting behind me, coughing all night) but we made it.
Since I'd heard that Sta. Cruz isn't the nicest of places, all we did was find a taxi to the 'bus stop' from which we could go to the nice little town of Samaipata.
The taxi driver had no idea where to go, but he was nice and eventually he brought us to the right place. From there we took a shared taxi to Samaipata. It was a 3 hour ride, but I slept most of it, still suffering from my hangover.

Samaipata

When we got to Samaipata we were surprised how quiet it was. It kind of felt like there were no people there, and no busy life. Also all the streets around the main square were under construction, so there was no traffic at all ( not that one would need any kind of transportation in a place as small as this). It was easy to find the hostel, which was the place where I was supposed to be to work a month before, and after settling down we cooked some lunch and walked around the town. There was a 'mirador' (viewpoint) and several small, but fancy and European shops, and that was pretty much it.
I still didn't know what exactly I wanted to do in Samaipata and it took me a while to decide. But then I ended up going to some ruins called 'el fuerte', which were pretty impressive, and some beautiful waterfalls. I took a long walk above the waterfalls and was surprised how much it looked like Austria - I almost felt like I was in my home country.
My afternoons in Samaipata I spent with painting - the owners of the hostel saw my sketchbook the first day, and liked it, and offered me to paint something in exchange for a room. So I made a draft for a mural in the kitchen, and now there's my artwork on their wall (which is pretty cool). And i didn't have to pay for any of the nights I stayed there, including the delicious breakfast with whole wheat bread and fresh fruits.
But there really wasn't that much to do in Samaipata, and I was a little bit in a rush to travel the rest of Bolivia without overstaying my visa. So after a couple days of nice and quiet I felt like I was ready again for a big city - Cochabamba.

Cochabamba
To get from Samaipata to Cochabamba, without having to go back to Santa Cruz, was an interesting thing to do. First I had to go to an even smaller town than Samaipata called Mairana. The departure time of the bus changed depending on the person I asked, so I wanted to get there early. Luckily I caught a bus so I didn't have to take a taxi and arrived in Mairana super early. I found a restaurant that sold the bus tickets, but when I bought it I noticed that I was the only person on the bus. I had to wait for almost 2 hours, but no more people came within that time. When we left there was one other person with me in the back, and a whole family sitting in the driver's cabin of the bus. I was a little nervous, but along the way we collected and dropped off some more people and after some hours we arrived safely in Cochabamba. Since it was the middle of the night I could sleep on the bus until morning - that seemed like a great solution to me except that it was freezing cold.
When I got up my plan was to go first to the bus station to collect some information and a map of the city (that only got interrupted by a delicious breakfast on the street). I also had a good friend there, but since my phone had given up working in Rurre i couldn't get a hold of him.
I spent the early morning hours looking for a hostel with a reasonable price and after i finally found one i just dropped my bag there and left for the city.
The first thing I did, and one of the only things you can do in Cochabamba besides eating, is to walk up to their enormous Jesus statue which overlooks pretty much the whole city (it's even bigger than the one in Rio de Janeiro) Getting up there was more that exhausting, and the heat started to kill me. And since I had left everything at the hostel (which wasn't really a hostel, but more just a cheap place to crash) I didn't have to wait long for my sunburn.
At the top of the hill, and right next to Jesus' feet I met some guys that spoke German. It turned out that they were Swiss, German and Austrian, and they were the only white tourists I met in Cocha. After a while we decided to go and get lunch together, but that plan got interrupted by some Texan missionaries, from which I learned never to admit to speak English at the bottom of a giant Jesus and to people that wear 'I love Jesus'-shirts. What else they said I don't know, because my mind was too occupied with finding the fastest and least rude way to get away from them.
The way down was a lot better than the way up, and the next task was to find a public phone to call my friend. Usually you can find a phone on every corner but, of course, when you need one there are none.
After a while I found it though, and my friend agreed to meet us for lunch. He actually showed up on time, and I was super happy to see him because he reminded me of the good times I had in Rurre.
We had lunch at the market and then I split up with the German-speaking guys and David (my Bolivian friend) took me on a little tour through the city and its markets, including the place where the buses to Toro Toro leave. Until a week before that I had no idea that Toro Toro exists nor what it was. But a good friend of mine in Rurre told me about it and then I looked it up in a 2008 travel guide. It said something about the only house in town having electricity 24/7 was the church and buses leaving twice a week.
The reality in 2014 was a little different though, and when we got to the bus station a grand group of tourists awaited us. It turned out that buses now were leaving once or twice a day and it was an easy thing to say 'yes' to the plan of going there the next day.
I spent the evening at my David's house (mostly playing with his monkey Jack, which is his pet) and as Bolivians are they invited me to dinner, for which they served delicious homemade empanadas.
And as Bolivian guys are, David insisted on taking me back to my hostel safely and after finally getting there I passed out immediately after this long day.
The next morning I spent walking around and reading before getting lunch with David. After that we went to get my stuff and he brought me to the Toro Toro bus station.
My original plan was to find the German guy again because he had said he might come with me. But since I couldn't find their hostel, I thought I was going by myself after all and was quite surprised when Andi and Thomas suddenly showed up at the bus stop. It felt good and I was looking forward to this unexpected trip.

Toro Toro
The bus ride to Toro Toro werd about 5 hours on a bumpy road, but I had a lot of food with me and was in the middle of a good book so I didn't mind.
We stayed at the first place we found, which was basic but nice, and for a little extra money (which the owner forgot to charge us for in the end anyways) we could use the kitchen too.
Toro Toro seemed like a pretty dead place, especially after a big and busy city like Cochabamba, and at the hour of 9.30 pm it was impossible to find something to eat.
The next day we wanted to do a hike into the canyon, and since tourism is 'improving' rapidly we had to go with a guide. At first I was a little disappointed because I had expected Toro Toro being the kind of place where you can just go on your own, but then the tour was good and the guide showed us things which we definitely would have missed without him. Like the dinosaur tracks. And some ancient wall paintings. And he explained us a lot about the plants and how they were, and are, being used for medical purposes.
The hike itself was beautiful as well, and since we didn't meet any other people  we were just surrounded by the incredible silence of nature and our own noises. We also went down into the canyon to take a break and a swim at some beautiful waterfalls, before walking the exhausting steps back up.
The rest of the day we spend with buying food for dinner (the Toro Toro market is the emptiest I've seen in all my time in South America) and cooking, and reading.
On the following day we had planned to go to a place called 'cementario de tortugas' (turtle cemetary), this time on our own. The morning was slow because it rained, but when it stopped we started the short, but very nice walk to the 'cemetery'. The landscape in Toro Toro is quite interesting, because you're able to see all the lines and layers of the mountains' formation.
When we got to the cemetery, the only person there was a little  energetic girl. When she saw us she took us to the little museum, and then went to get her mom while we were looking around. The museum was new and it seemed like it still hasn't been all finished, but it showed some interesting information about the dinosaurs and mountains of the area. There were also some fossils including (what a surprise) turtles. But the best part about going there was the little girl's mom, an original Bolivian 'cholita', who the showed us around the place of the archaeological excavation. It was a hilly field of earth in different intense shades of red, where they had found multiple turtle fossils and were still discovering new ones. It was pretty impressive, if you ask me.
On the way back I once more noticed the many different colours the landscape here had, going through all shades of grey, green, purple and red. I loved it.
Back at our hostel everybody had a little alone time before we cooked again, had dinner on the rooftop and played cards.
This was our last night in Toro Toro and when we got up the next day we only went down to the river for a little bit before taking the bus back to Cochabamba.

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